Gibraltar in a Dozen
- Aaron Woodruff
- Oct 26
- 11 min read
Updated: Oct 27
Welcome to 'Gibraltar in a Dozen' - an overview of this fascinating British Overseas Territory in twelve of my favourite photographs from a week there in September. Overlooking the Strait of Gibraltar and joined by land with Spain to the north, and Morocco to the south oversea, the famous Rock of Gibraltar and land around it has seen such a variety of different people and cultures shape it into what it is today. With these dozen photos, I'm looking to showcase this cultural mix and highlight the melting pot culture of Gibraltar - a place proud of its openness yet staunchly British. I hope you enjoy this delve into this unique place, in 'Gibraltar in a Dozen'...
1. Our Lady of Europe Statue
We begin with a statue that has a long history, and one whose story has synergies with the tumultuous history of faith on the Iberian peninsula. Alike Spain and Portugal, today Gibraltar has a strong Christian faith, and whilst for much of this history this has been the case, there've been eras where Islam dominated after sweeping in from North Africa when the Muslim Moors conquered this region. It was Tariq Ibn Ziyad who crossed the Strait of Gibraltar in the year 711 at the start of the Muslim conquest, and this was the catalyst for the creation of this peninsula being known as Al-Andalus for centuries. It was just shy of 800 years when Granada fell in 1492, signifying the collapse of Moorish control of Iberia - and the triumph of the Christian Reconquest of Spain, Portugal and Gibraltar. It was this 'Reconquista' that means the Iberian peninsula today is primarily Christian, and the 'Our Lady of Europe' proudly stands at Europa Point as a testament of faith and of her own journey of survival. This statue was named by Kind Ferdinand of Castille in 1309, with the hope of acting as spiritual beacon for the peninsula during a time of Moorish dominance. The depiction of mother and child was victim to pillaging from Anglo-Dutch forces in 1704, and was effectively in exile for over 150 years until it was returned to Gibraltar in 1864, following restoration in Algeciras. Nowadays the Our Lady of Europe statue is housed in a warm and welcoming refurbished shrine, for both locals and visiting pilgrims - one which even welcomed Pope John Paul II in 1997.
2 & 3. The Gibraltar Cable Car and the 'Top of the Rock' View
Moving onto the second photo, we're now heading up to the most famous site of Gibraltar - the iconic 'Rock of Gibraltar'. It sounds silly... but I didn't realise how big this limestone landmark was until seeing it in person! They say that 'nothing prepares you for seeing the real thing' when it comes to visiting tourist hotspots around the world - and without a doubt this was personally true in this instance! The scale of the Rock of Gibraltar Nature Reserve is vast - epitomised by the 412 metre ascent of the cable car to the station near the 'Top of the Rock' café, which takes approximately six minutes. It's a trip not for the faint-hearted or those uneasy about heights (my eyes were shut most of the way up!), but it's an efficient and eco-friendly way to get up there for fine views of the 1398 foot high limestone ridge. This photo of the cable car was from one of the many trails of the nature reserve, with cruise ships and boats below, near to the Ocean Village resort area of Gibraltar. In the background of the photograph, you can see the long Spanish coastline. The third picture shows visitors enjoying one of the best views of Gibraltar from a viewing platform that's near to the cable car station. This view really pronounces why this geographic landmark is referred to as a 'limestone ridge' - with shrubbery climbing all the way to the top of its western slopes.
4. The Barbary Macaques
These dozen photos would not be complete without including the famous Barbary macaques on the Rock of Gibraltar, of whom are the only population of wild monkeys in Europe. This photo that I've chosen here shows the family bond between these playful primates! There's plenty of food available on the Rock at the Apes Den and at other spots, in order to supplement their diets, which includes sourcing things to eat from the greenery of the nature reserve, These tail-less monkeys are technically known as 'Macaca Sylvanus' - and it's the general consensus that they come from North Africa (as they are native to the likes of Morocco and Algeria) - however the exact way this happened is somewhat up for debate. There are three main theories with regards to this:
*One is that they began breeding on the Rock when there was no Strait of Gibraltar - thousands of years ago when Europa and Africa were joined together.
*Another belief is that they arrived much later during the Moorish presence during their period of prosperity in Al-Andalus, whereby they brought the macaques with them.
*Thirdly, there are schools of thought that it was in fact the British who introduced them as 'exotic pets' of the time, with the upper slopes of the Rock acting as a huge play area for them!
Regardless of exactly how or when these monkeys arrived in Gibraltar, they've undoubtedly become a symbol of the Rock and of British sovereignty of the land. As the old saying goes: "As long as the monkeys stay on the Rock, so will the British"! Legend says that Sir Winston Churchill intervened to source more monkeys from Africa when their population was dwindling - showing that they've practically become a 'lucky mascot' figure on the Rock. The signs for their future is very good thankfully, as there's a flourishing population of Barbary macaques in the Gibraltar Nature Reserve today - with over 250 of the lovable primates, loving their life of the Rock of Gibraltar.
5 & 6. O'Hara's Battery Viewpoint and Tunnels
Continuing to walk south from the top of the cable car station, and via where there was an abundance of monkeys, the road bears left up to the very highest spot on the Rock: the O'Hara's Battery. Named after General Charles O'Hara (Governor of Gibraltar between 1795 to 1802), this artillery battery had a 9.2 inch cannon implemented in 1901 with a range of 29,000 yards (26 kilometres!). The height of this key military spot contributed to why this cannon could reach so far - much further than the 6 inch cannon that was originally mounted on this spot in 1890. Looking northwards from O'Hara's Battery is a marvellous perspective of the Rock - you can see by this fifth photo how the Rock peaks and troughs and also appreciate the scale of this geographic landmark. Because of this, it's well worth hiking up to O'Hara's Battery if able to do so. Additionally, venturing inside allows a walk through some interesting old machine rooms and also along a military tunnel which is captured in photo six. There's a huge network of historic tunnels on the Rock of Gibraltar - so I couldn't choose these dozen photos without drawing a just attention to them.
The Great Siege Tunnels and the World War 2 Tunnels respectively can both be found at the northern end of the Rock. The Great Siege Tunnels date to 1779 to 1783, and were the first tunnels excavated in the Rock. These tunnels were excavated to defend Gibraltar during the Great Siege (which was an unsuccessful attempt from Spain and France to capture Gibraltar during the American Revolutionary War), when Sargent Ince of the Corps of Military Artificers and his men commenced operations. The excavations established the creation of lookouts from the north face of the Rock towards Spain, and these Great Siege Tunnels were also known as the 'Upper Galleries'.
The scale of the World War Two Tunnels, at a lower altitude, was much bigger than the Upper Galleries. Royal Engineers came to Gibraltar after Dunkirk and initiated work on these tunnels in August 1940, as Gibraltar once more was set to play a role in the theatre of war. Royal Canadian Engineers followed in March 1941, whereby the tunnel network went on to grow in size to act as an ever-increasingly important space for the Gibraltarians, British and Allies, during WW2. These tunnels grew to 24 miles worth by the end of this war, and this remarkable engineering feat went on to be a crucial factor enabling 'Operation Torch' - which was the 1943 invasion of North Africa, to ultimately defeat Rommel's German forces. This triumph was therefore highly significant in attaining total victory for the Allied forces against the Axis powers (led by the Nazi tyranny).
*More photos and information about Gibraltar's Great Siege and World War 2 Tunnels will feature in an upcoming article that I'll dedicate solely to the sights to see on the Rock of Gibraltar.
7. St Michael's Cave Angel
One of the touristic highlights of Gibraltar, featuring as the seventh photo of this dozen, is the stunning St Michael's Cave. The magnificent 'Angel' formation certainly stood out to me as the star attraction there - it's an amazing formation. The illumination of the caves is very atmospheric and I was very pleased with this photo of the St Michael's Cave Angel - looking as if it is floating above us with the radiant kaleidoscope of colour from the lighting. The stalactites (hang from the ceiling) and stalagmites (grow up from the ground) that are formed from the mineral-rich water that drips in the cave, ensure that upon entering, you are surrounded by a wonderland of geographic formations. Legend says that this cave is bottomless... and people speculated that it joins up with Africa by a subterranean passage (also a way the macaques may have got here - who knows!?). Nowadays, as well as touristic sightseeing visits, the cave is used for concerts and orchestral performances, thanks to the superb acoustics that the vast interior of St Michael's Cave creates.
8. National Day Celebrations
On planning this trip to Gibraltar with my family for September, we looked to ensure that we timed our visit to experience 'National Day'. Celebrated annually on the 10th September, the Gibraltarians celebrate their sovereignty, and their status as a British Overseas Territory with a unique autonomy of their own. The people of Gibraltar celebrate their right to 'self-determination' and it is a much coined phrase is that "Gibraltar belongs to its people". In 1967, the Gibraltar Sovereignty Referendum saw a 99% majority vote to remain under British sovereignty, with its own self-governing institutions - clearly dismissing the prospect of passing under Spanish rule. At Grand Casemates Square, there was a festival atmosphere on National Day - with crowds of people dressed in red and white gathering to celebrate. I really enjoyed being in the mix of people to hear live music, prominent people speak, and to get a feel for the proud sense of patriotism in Gibraltar. As a British person, I understand and am proud of how our nation has modernised in the 20th and 21st centuries in terms of de-colonising and granting nations their freedoms. Regardless of how much good the British Empire did, there were of course a lot of negative impacts of our historic role in the world; countries like India, Sri Lanka and China attaining their sovereignty is their inalienable right. However, with regards to Gibraltar - it's very different - because the people want to stay British. It's a 2.6 square mile land that is etched in our heritage, and will stay proudly British.
9. Gorham's Cave Complex
We return back to another geographic wonder of Gibraltar for this ninth photo, by heading to the eastern side of the mighty Rock. This photo features the Gorham's Cave Complex - a UNESCO World Heritage listed site since July 2016. It was recognised by this global heritage association, thanks to Gorham's Caves "exceptional testimony to Neanderthals and Early Modern Humans" - high praise for this site with such valuable insight into the Pre-historic era. In terms of visiting the inside of any of these caves - it's quite a process! There's a waiting list which you can join via emailing the team as explained on their website. The reason for this is because they operate limited visits in order to protect the fragile caves. Despite this, the experience of simply visiting the visitors centre there is very rewarding itself. I did this after walking north, after arriving at Europa Point by bus - and on the way there is lots of information at a viewing platform at the 1st/2nd Europa Advance Batteries, whilst further along there's a superb lookout at the complex from the visitors centre (which is where this featured photo was captured. There were friendly staff (Paulette and Sarah-Jane welcomed me) who offer a thorough overview with an extremely educational 20 minute talk about this site. I learned so much, and it's incredible to think that there's evidence to support the belief that there was Neanderthal presence in this area for around 100,000 years. The UNESCO site is this whole area of the Rock, from the caves up to the highest point which is 426 metres above sea level; it's a layer cake of geology that has been a source of much knowledge - and it's wonderful that the investigative work is done so carefully.
10 & 11. Europa Point Lighthouse and Mosque
Gibraltar's southern most point is one of my personal favourite areas - it's a place where the ocean breeze and rugged terrain blends with a picturesque lighthouse and a beautiful mosque. I alluded to Our Lady of Europe earlier in this article, however we return to Europa Point to include these next two pictures in this dozen! The Europa Point Lighthouse stands proud, in a classically British red and white style, overlooking the Strait of Gibraltar. On a clear day, there's fine views across this meeting point of the Mediterranean and the Atlantic, to Morocco in the north west of Africa.
The Ibrahim-al-Ibrahim Mosque is fitting here in how it faces this Muslim country, which is less than 10 miles away oversea. The mosque enables the Muslim residents of Gibraltar (which make up just shy of 5% of the population, approximately 1,600 people based on current research) and visitors to visit and use this sacred space for prayer. Standing tall as a symbol of the multi-cultural nature of 'Gib' - this mosque was a gift by King Fahad Al-Saud (hence why this mosque is also often referred to by his name) of Saudi Arabia, whereby it took two years to build. The gleaming white exterior is accompanied by a welcoming and cool white and green interior colour scheme; it was officially inaugurated on the 8th August 1997, and cost around five million pounds. These two photos were taken on a great weather day, whereby I enjoyed wandering with my camera around Europa Point, and to also have the opportunity to spend a while contemplating and appreciating the splendid interior decor of one of the largest mosques in the world's non-Muslim majority countries.
12. Grand Casemates Square
I think it's fitting to conclude this article at what I would consider as the heart of Gibraltar: Grand Casemates Square. This much venerated meeting point has already featured in full colours for the photo there for National Day (!), however I wanted to include a photo of it not 'all dressed-up', to appreciate the square itself. Once the flags and stage were taken away, Casemates continues to be a special place for the Gibraltarians all year round. Flanked by a great array of pubs and restaurants, and being at the northern end of Main Street - Casemates feels very British in design. The name 'Casemates' derives from the meaning of the word 'a vaulted chamber in the thickness of the ramparts of a fortress, used as a barracks, a battery, or both'... but it has come a long way today, since it was used as a place for hangings a long time ago! It dates back to construction in the 1770s - although progress was stalled during the Great Siege -therefore it was completed decades later in 1817. Tunnels lead through the exterior walls which surround Casemates, and the whole area in and around it feels military in its style - with thick city walls separating today's nearby bus station on both sides. To me, Casemates' prosperity signifies the triumph of the Gibraltarian's spirit, in terms of how nowadays it's a great place to go to relax and enjoy time with family and friends - as oppose to what it would have been like during more tumultuous eras of history there!
I hope you've enjoyed 'Gibraltar in a Dozen'... twelve of my favourite photos from this fascinating place to elaborate on in order to tell a story about this special land. From cheeky monkeys to a majestic mosque, to the Our Lady of Europe and the lighthouse, and Grand Casemates Square to the vital network of tunnels in the Rock - Gibraltar's sightseeing variety is far grander than may be expected for a place less than three square miles in size. I've been very lucky to travel to some amazing places, however Gibraltar has left a particularly pertinent mark on me thanks to not only its incredible sights, but its prominent role in world history and the cultural mix that's shaped its heritage and the people there today. I'm very grateful to have visited in September this year, and I look forward to visiting again someday to delve deeper into yet more sights which I didn't get around to seeing on this occasion. Thank you very much for reading.
By Aaron Woodruff
Lessons & Joys of Travel
26/10/2025
Comments